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North Korea is one of the few places in the world that still feels genuinely unknown. Before going, I expected it to be strange, tightly controlled, and unlike anywhere I had been before. It was all of those things—but what stayed with me most was not just the politics or the spectacle. It was the feeling of stepping into a place that seemed frozen in its own reality, with its own rhythms, symbols, and rules, and knowing that almost everything I was seeing had been carefully